Don’t toil on the toll

Having heard stories surrounding the introduction of toll payment on the A22 motorway crossing into Portugal from Huelva, I availed myself of a short golfing break to put it to the test.
First the bad news: any golfers from Spain travelling further west than Tavira will have to pay for the toll which is quite a chaotic operation. However, there is a ticket machine just 250m over the bridge where season tickets of different validity dates can be purchased. The good news? Take the A22 motorway a few kilometres without needing to pay monies; exit at Junction 17 then head down towards the N125 main road which leads to Altura and Tavira. Although there are a few potholes to contend with it is generally a pleasant drive – tailgaters aside – alongside orange groves and quaint villages. Stop for a short break and enjoy the Portuguese national pastime of sipping coffee out of miniature cups. Importantly, the region of the eastern Algarve (known as Sotavento) is relatively undeveloped and is home to a number of fine golf courses.
Just across the border is Quinta do Vale – Seve’s legacy – being one of the final courses he designed. Having played a couple of his, how shall we put it, quirkier layouts in Spain this is definitely not in that mode: open, flat with plenty of water hazards: when the wind blows this can be tough.
The only concession to a typical Seve trait is the fact that there are six Par 5’s, six Par 4’s etc. Nearby is Castro Marim which offers good value for money; a fine club house and variety: the Guadiana, Atlantic and Grouse layouts offering green fee combinations.
Next up is Benamor designed by Sir Henry Cotton. Although I would not rate it in the league of his Penina and Vale do Lobo creations this is a pleasant parkland course with a noticeable lack of on-site construction. Another couple of courses worth playing are Quinta da Ria and Quinta da Cima designed by ‘Rocky’ Roquemore. The latter has already held the Ladies Portuguese Open and the signature hole, for me, has to be the 16th where one has to negotiate the water hazards and seagulls! The da Ria course is shorter with spectacular views to the Atlantic and Ria Formosa national park and lagoon.
Perhaps the ‘Jewel in the Crown’ is Monte Rei, a Jack Nicklaus signature course opened four years ago offering a true test of championship golf. The emphasis here is on service with valet parking, courtesy towel, personalized bag tag and locker key as keepsakes not forgetting a courtesy pyramid of Titleist balls on the range. Costing between 150€ and 190€ for a green fee this is certainly at the upper end of the market but does include buggy and is comparable with some of our best in Sotogrande. Many consider the 13th to be the signature hole teeing off from an elevated spot towards a green protected by a lake but, to be fair, every hole has a charm of its own and several are subtle dog-leg rights. Although Portugal lost the bid to host the Ryder Cup, Jack Nicklaus remains on hand to design a further 18 holes at Monte Rei which will be more spectator friendly affording many vantage points.
The land is there, as is the design, all that is missing is a successful campaign. The club house catering is not your typical egg and chips fayre either with the resident chef previously of El Bulli restaurant.
Where to stay? Don’t expect to go to the eastern Algarve expecting Puerto Banus style nightlife. The towns reflect a quiet heritage unchanged for centuries. My advice would be to head to the medieval town of Tavira which lies on a river and previously home to the Algarve tunny fishing industry. This, alas, is all but extinct but relics from the past exist. There is a pleasant old quarter to explore with the remains of a Moorish castle. Should you have more time to explore then take the short ferry ride to ‘Tavira Island’: an unspoiled stretch of beach measuring 11 km in length where one can sunbathe or birdwatch.

Tags: Play Golf in Portugal